Indonesian Anniversary

Today, September 6, marks the nine-year anniversary of our arrival in Indonesia.  Nine years ago, we were stepping off the plane in Jakarta, scared to death and wondering what we'd gotten ourselves into.  I'll never forget stumbling down the jetway from the airplane and encountering the sights, smells, and sounds of a new country - the faint scent of clove cigarettes, the warm blanket of humidity, the distant call to prayer from a mosque.

Those first few weeks of language school, trying to make my mouth twist around new sounds, were challenging, all the more so after the events of 9/11.  Back then I never could have imagined how much I would come to love this country, which in many ways seems more like home now than the U.S.  

Grace (age 17 months) and I experience culture shock in 2001

As a tribute to our nine years in this country, I'd like to share some things I love about living here - there are many, but here is a list of 10.

1.  The friendly people.  Indonesians are soooo friendly.  Total strangers frequently strike up conversations with me, curious about where I'm from and what I'm doing here.  I love that they are open and easy with a smile.  It is easy to get to know people and make friends here, and I'm really thankful for that.

Amal Beach, Tarakan, 2009

2.  The gift of another language.  It didn't seem like a gift when I was struggling to make myself be understood in the beginning, feeling like an idiot.  I still feel like an idiot much of the time, but I love, love, love being able to speak a different language.  Knowing Indonesian has been crucial to developing relationships, but it's also opened up my world and (hopefully) flexed my brain in new ways.  I love the simplicity of the Indonesian language, and saying lovely words like "perpustakaan" (library).  Plus, when we're in the U.S. it's like knowing a secret language, since very Americans speak it.

Teaching a song, Long Alongo, 2008

3.  Orpa.  Orpa has lived with us for almost eight years, and I can't imagine life here without her.  She is my right-hand woman and is such a huge help to me around the house and with the kids.  She would kill me if she knew I posted the picture below of her, but I think it captures her personality quite well - she is so much fun and loves the kids.  The whole employer-employee relationship can be a little weird at times, but she's so much more than our employee - she's family.

Orpa and Zoe, 2006

In 2008 Orpa's sister Dorkas came to live with us as well.  They are both from a poor mountain community in Sulawesi, and Orpa and her family wanted Dorkas to have the chance for a better education.  So Dorkas goes to high school and works part-time for me.  Like her sister, she is a joy to be around.

Dorkas, Zoe, Orpa, Grace, 2009

4.  Watermelon all year-round.  And pineapples, mangoes, papaya, rambutan, etc.  You get the idea.

5.  The food!  Aside from the fruit, there's nasi goreng (fried rice), srikaya (coconut jam - my latest obsession), fried cassava, chicken sate, spring rolls, soto ayam (chicken soup), and so many other yummy dishes here, including the one pictured below, gado-gado.

Gado-gado, 2008

6.  Rain and the weather in general.  I have always loved rain and thunderstorms and while I really, really miss the Weather Channel, I love that we get lots of rain and when it's not raining, lots of sun.  I have moments of longing for a crisp fall day, but most of the time I love the fact that I get to wear flip-flops all year round.  Which reminds me of another thing I love about living here - a salon right down the road where I can get a cheap pedicure.

7.  The beauty.  Orchids, virgin rain forest, rainbows that span the sky, bright blue kingfishers, crystal clear seas - there is much beauty to behold in Indonesia.

8.  Amazing vacations.  We've been able to take some pretty cool vacations in our nine years here - to Malaysia, Singapore, Bali, and some islands close to Tarakan that have great snorkeling.  

Carter, Grace, and their friend Britton on a weekend snorkeling trip, 2008

9.  Going interior.  One of my favorite things to do here is a weekend trip to a village interior.  The mountain air is so refreshing, and I love just going for walks and hanging out with the people, getting a glimpse into their lives.  On our last trip interior I met the young lady pictured below, who is going to the Bible school there.  She was disowned by her family for her faith and has a very inspiring story.  

Sarah, Kampung Baru, 2010

10.  The crazy experiences I have here, and the beautiful friends I've made.  

Cuddling a sun bear, 2007

Riding down a river in the heart of Borneo, 2008

Learning to drive a motorcycle, 2009

My friend Maylan, 2010

Ibu Markus holding Zoe, 2006

Church cell group, 2007

Neighbor Kids, 2006

MAF women, Family Conference 2010

Young couples class we teach, 2010

Baju Adat

Last Sunday a dream came true for me.  I have for over a year been the owner of a beautiful traditional Dayak outfit, given to me by a friend from an interior village.  It is gorgeous - black velvet decorated in colorful sequins - but there aren't too many opportunities for me to wear it.  It's not exactly the kind of thing that you throw on to run out to the store...or even to church.

Until last week.  It's missions emphasis month at our Indonesian church, so everyone was asked to wear their baju adat (traditional clothing) from their own suku (people group).  Alas, being a Heinz 57 American, I am seriously lacking in the traditional clothing department.  I feel very culturally poor in this regard.  The German, Scotch, Irish, English, and Native American blood that flows through my veins is so diluted that I can't truly claim any of them as my suku, hence the lack of traditional dress.  If I had access to a Goodwill store (or, better yet, my parents' closet) I could have put something interesting together - like a German dirndl, a Scottish tartan, and a Native American headdress.

We tossed around the idea of dressing as cowboys, since many Indonesians have that perception that Americans are all spur-wearing, lasso-toting cowhands.  Luke wore a cowboy hat and vest (David did grow up on a working ranch in Colorado, so he does at least have that in his heritage) but, in a nod to our island residence, wore flip-flops in lieu of boots.

So, not having a traditional American costume, I became Lun Dayeh (one of the tribes of the people interior) for a day.  Several older women in the church came up to me and said, "Oh, you need a belt" or "You need bracelets" so that by the time I went home I had a complete outfit with all the accessories.  

The church service itself was a glimpse of Heaven with many suku from across the Indonesian archipelago represented - Java, Toraja, ethnic Chinese, Bali, Lombok, Sumatera.  David and I looked at each other during one of the songs and we both had tears in our eyes, moved by the visual reminder that even though we are a diverse group, we are unified by our shared faith.

Natalie

Remembering Hannah

When we first arrived in Tarakan in the fall of 2001, we quickly became close friends with our MAF teammates, Dave and Linda Ringenberg.  Their daughter, Hannah, was Carter's age and they played together often.

A year later, Hannah had some strange symptoms, and a trip to Singapore confirmed everyone's worst fears for sweet Hannah - an inoperable brain tumor.  The Ringenbergs left for the U.S. where Hannah received treatment for several months before passing away in August of 2003.

After Hannah's death, Dave and Linda began serving at MAF's headquarters.  We have kept in touch over the years, and I have been so blessed and encouraged by how Dave and Linda have trusted God through the worst possible circumstances for a parent.  

A month ago, after being away for eight years, Dave and Linda along with their two boys C.J. and Ryan (ages 9 and 3) came back to Tarakan so Dave could help with some of the flying for six months.  It has been so fun to have them back, though there's been a bit of a weird role reversal - when we were the newbies here, they were the ones showing us around.  Now, it's the other way around, with us reintroducing them to life in Tarakan.  Some things haven't changed in their eight year absence (the heat, mosquitoes, etc.), but many things in Tarakan have changed for the better - wonderful things like a really nice swimming pool, higher-speed internet, and fresh butter.

So today, August 2, marks the seven-year anniversary of Hannah's passing.  Yesterday the Ringenbergs asked us to help them commemorate together.  

We shared memories of Hannah, the kids drew pictures for Hannah - mostly of butterflies.  During Hannah's illness, the butterfly became her symbol - to this day, I think of her every time I see one.

At sunset we released balloons and reflected on how Hannah is with the Lord in Heaven, and while we feel sad and miss her, we know we'll see her again one day.  

Our lives were forever touched by knowing Hannah.  She taught me some very important lessons - how I need to cherish my children and take the time to really enjoy them.  I also learned that they are in God's hands - no matter how much I may try to protect them from harm, what happens to them is ultimately up to the Lord.  And that is okay, because He is a good, loving God.  

Natalie

Women's Retreat

This past weekend the gap that exists between "American Natalie" and "Cross-cultural Natalie" got narrowed a bit when I attended a women's retreat with ladies from my Indonesian church.  I constantly strive to be one with the culture, and in several areas I have adapted and am more Asian than ever before - but there are still some things, some very basic things, that I cling to as an American.

Bathing, for instance.  We still take hot showers here in Indonesia, though some days I opt for a cold one.  Indonesians, however, for the most part take splash baths - just you, the water, and the bucket, splashing away.  I have done this type of bath numerous times and while it's very refreshing after a hike in the jungle, I still prefer my American hot shower.

This past weekend though I went a step further than the splash bath and entered a new realm.  Our retreat was held at a little elementary school on the beach, and there was no bathroom, other than just a toilet.  So those who wanted to bathe had to do so out in the open, wearing a sarong.

I have long been in awe of women who can bathe wearing a sarong and somehow go from being completely clothed under the sarong, to being undressed, showered, and dressed again - and not show any flesh doing so.  It's truly amazing.  A few ladies took me under their wing and gave me some pointers with the sarong bath and I think I was successful - I got clean and flashed them only once.  

Another aspect of life I cling to as an American is how I sleep.  A soft mattress, a fluffy pillow, a cool, dark room makes for perfect sleep.  But having slept on floors many a time on our trips interior, and being one who loves to camp, I was up for whatever on this retreat.  We ended up sleeping in one of the classrooms; some were on the floor, like the ladies in the above pictures, and some - like me - on tables.  Okay, sleeping on a table - no problem.  But then there was the issue of the light.  The conversation went something like this:

Me: Um, are we going to turn off the light so it will be dark?

The other ladies: But if we turn off the light it will be too dark, like a cave.  Ibu Natalie, if you want it to be dark, just close your eyes!

So the light stayed on all night.  Long about 1 a.m., when we finally went to sleep, I was so tired they could have shone a flashlight in my eyes and it wouldn't have mattered.  It was entertaining to lay there and listen to these ladies - some of them grannies in their seventies - tease each other and giggle as we were settling down for the night, like a bunch of middle-school girls at a slumber party.

I was up by 5:30 (!) for our morning service, followed by games and exercise.  I was amazed to see the aforementioned grannies playing soccer, at six in the morning.  We played partner soccer, where you had to hold your partner's hand while playing.  After being drug up and down the soccer field by a very athletic woman and making pathetic attempts at kicking the ball, I was glad the next game was something I could actually do.  One team had to keep a balloon up in the air, while the opposing team tried to knock the balloon to the ground.  Effortlessly I - who at 5'6" is considered a tall woman - could rise above the crowd like Michale Jordan to bat the balloon around.

Swimming in the ocean, eating fresh coconut, singing together, and playing bingo into the wee hours of the night were all highlights of the retreat. But the best part for me - aside from learning to bathe in a sarong - was getting to know the ladies from church a little better. Even though we've been attending this particular church for about two years, I had yet to form any deep relationships with anyone.  But there's nothing like an overnight trip to help you bond with people.  I especially enjoyed getting to know the woman in the picture below, Ibu Elisabeth, whom everyone affectionately calls "Oma".  

I really miss having older women in my life to look up to and to emulate.  I see Oma at church every week and this woman ALWAYS SMILES.  And you can just tell by looking at her, that her smiles well up from real joy in her life.  I told my friend Novita, who also went on the retreat, "I want to be Oma when I grow up!"  I am so thankful the Lord allowed me the opportunity to get to know her - and hopefully she can help fill the need I have felt for a mentor.

And lastly, one of the most amazing things about this retreat, and something that really impresses me about the women who attended was that NO ONE COMPLAINED.  About anything!  I mean, we all swatted mosquitoes and had a few disparaging remarks about that, but overall everyone was just happy to be there.  This is another aspect of American Natalie I would like to shed forever - my tendency to complain when my personal comfort is threatened.  

Bali

I love vacation.  I know, who doesn't, right?  But I really, really, REALLY love vacation.  I dream about it.  I plan for it months in advance.  I rip articles out of magazines and save them in file folders as fodder for future vacation fantasizing.  I know I spend way too much time thinking about and pining for vacation.  Part of it is my over-active imagination, and part of it is a by-product of living on a little spit of an island that seriously lacks in the diversions department.  I know that to hear we live on an island in the tropics conjures up all sorts of images of white-sand beaches, crystal clear water and pina colodas, but to quote a former MAF teammate, "Tropical island it is; paradise it ain't."

We live in a small typical Asian town - noisy, hot, dusty - and for most of the year we don't travel outside of a 5-kilometer radius around our house.  Every other week we make the long (10 kilometer!) drive out to the beach, or pool, and that's it.  No road trips, no trips to the next town over for dinner, nothing.  David gets to fly to the jungle interior a few times a week, but for me and the kids, most of the time our world is quite small.

All that to say, I was really looking forward to our trip to Bali.  I once visited Bali years ago when I was about  8 months pregnant with Luke to attend a women's conference, but we'd never been with the whole family.  And to make it even more wonderful, my parents flew to Tarakan and spent two weeks here with us before we all traveled together to Bali.  I got my love of traveling from my dad, who is a master at it and makes any trip fun.

One of the best things we did in Bali was to rent a car and ride around, getting lost in the lush countryside.  We saw rice fields and volcanoes, and I ate about a kilo of one of my all-time favorite fruits, the mangostein.  We hiked to some Buddhist stone carvings that pre-date Hinduism.  The place had an ancient, other-worldly feel to it.

We enjoyed a day at the water park, and a trip to the Bali Bird and Reptile Park, where we got to hold some different birds.

When my parents were in Tarakan, Dad got to fly along with David and had lunch at a village interior, where he was fed monitor lizard.  At the reptile park in Bali he got to see what he it was he ate:

The hotel grounds where we stayed were just lovely, and I enjoyed seeing several of one of my favorite types of trees, the sea fan.  I would love to have one of these growing in my backyard.

So all in all, Bali lived up to my vacation expectations - lots of playing, relaxing, and eating.  Dad left from Bali to go back to Georgia, but Mom came back to Tarakan with us and will be here another week.  It's so nice having her around.  

Sampai nanti,

Natalie

Mother's Day

The past few weeks have been about as crazy as this picture of Zoe in a bucket!  This time of year always seems to bring a flurry of visitors and activity.  Not that I'm complaining.  Life on an island can be a bit dull at times (no, really!) so a change of pace is welcome.

My Aunt Mary and Uncle Harvey paid us a visit around Easter.  It was their first trip to Indonesia, and we tried to pack as much into their week here as we could.  They celebrated Easter with us at church and at a brunch with our MAF teammates, Uncle Harvey rode along with David on a medivac flight, we visited all the local tourist spots (all four of them!) and took a two-night trip interior.

In the picture above, Mary and Harvey try out fried chicken feet.  They were very adventurous and we had many laughs, especially over Mary's introduction to the Indonesian squatty potty.  

I was also proud of how Aunt Mary braved the rickety bamboo bridges we frequently crossed on our hike interior.  Looks easier than it is!

Carter is always catching critters - he caught this skink at our friend's hut near their rice field interior.

On our hike, our friend Pak Ajang took us to a place where in the old days of Dayak headhunting, they used to store the heads.  There was only a depression in the earth, and the heads are long gone (to Luke's disappointment).  

In the photo above, Pak Ajang is demonstrating how his ancestors in years past would prove their bravery by leaping off this stone over a spear that was stuck in the ground.  If they cleared the spear, they could call themselves brave.  If not...well, I guess they called themselves severely injured, at best!

 There was a tense moment when a kerbau (water buffalo) got between us and the trail.  They are docile creatures, but none of us wanted to get any closer to those horns than necessary.  

Zoe, however, didn't mind getting up close and personal with this kerbau, under Pak Ajang's watchful eye.

Here we are after a trip to the Tarakan beach.  It's always fun to see Tarakan again through a newcomer's eyes, and experience the culture anew.

A few days after Mary and Harvey left, we had a party for Grace's 10th birthday, a few days early.  Then we were off to family conference in Balikpapan.

Conference is always a highlight of the year.  A group of ladies from MAF headquarters came out to do the VBS and they all had a wild and fun time.  Kevin and Linda Swanson, whom we know from our Tennessee days when they worked at a counseling center and later when Kevin served as MAF CEO, came to be our speakers.  They did a fantastic job speaking on the topic of joy.

Here's our MAF Kalimantan team.  I love these people!!! 

Grace's actual birthday happened when we were at conference in the big city of Balikpapan.  So we were able to celebrate by going out to Pizza Hut and have J.Co doughnuts - which are just as good, in my opinion, as Krispy Kreme doughnuts.  A very special birthday, indeed! 

I can't believe Grace is 10 already.  Seems like she was just this size the other day.  This is Grace with my grandmother, Mamaw.  On April 24th it was two years since she passed away.  We miss her so much!

The day after conference David headed off to the U.S. to be trained to fly and instruct in our new Kodiak aircraft.  I'm glad he has the opportunity to go but we sure do miss him!  Just about 10 days to go and he's home.

Natalie